Cardin Chan, general manager of Tetra Neon Exchange (TNX), dedicates her efforts to educating and conserving the neon lights that once defined Hong Kong's nightscape. Courtesy of Cardin Chan
Editor’s note
This is the second in a two-part series exploring Hong Kong's captivating yet disappearing neon signs, once a bright and iconic part of the city's landscape. — ED.
By Kwak Yeon-soo
HONG KONG — Growing up in Hong Kong in the 1980 and '90s, Cardin Chan was surrounded by neon signs that bathed the city in their vibrant glow. At the time, she didn't pay much attention to them, but neon lights have always fascinated her and quietly shaped her sense of belonging. This defining feature of Hong Kong's nightscape was an omnipresent yet unexamined part of her childhood.
It wasn't until Chan spent years abroad in London, engaging with people who felt very passionate about their own home, district, city or country, that she began to reexamine the neon lights of Hong Kong through a lens of appreciation and nostalgia.
At the same time, she realized neon's growing disappearance during each visit to Hong Kong. Chan began to see the fading glow of neon not just as a loss of physical landmarks but as a dimming of the city's cultural identity.
After relocating back to Hong Kong in 2017, she dedicated herself to rediscovering the city, choosing its neon heritage as a starting point. As a volunteer, her first task was to conduct a survey of remaining neon signs in the city. This initial step led her down a path to approach the people of the neon industry.
The more she learned about the subject, the more she realized that the lack of understanding of Hong Kong's neon lights contributed to their disappearance. Motivated to change this, Chan joined the Tetra Neon Exchange (TNX), a nonprofit organization committed to preserving Hong Kong’s neon signs, in 2020. Chan has since served as the general manager of TNX, dedicating her efforts to educating and conserving the neon lights that once defined the city's nightscape.
The organization works tirelessly to save neon signs at risk of being removed for whatever reasons. This task demands time, trust and a lot of work, according to Chan.
"I want Hong Kong's neon to be given a fair chance to shine once more. We conserve both tangible and intangible heritage — signs and stories. Education, changing perceptions and mentality are what I believe should be the key areas of my work," she said.
Below is an excerpt of The Korea Times' interview with Chan. It has been edited for clarity and readability.
The neon sign of Mido Cafe in Hong Kong has held a strong presence in the business for over 60 years. Courtesy of TNX
Q. I feel like neon signs are an integral part of the city's streetscape. Why are neon signs important to Hong Kong culture?
A. Neon signs are important because they are the embodiments of what makes Hong Kong unique, where the old meets the new, and the East blends with the West. They encapsulate our visual culture, aesthetics and cultural elements like handwritten calligraphy, pictograms, designs — artists from Shanghai in the 1950s — and geometry from the West.
Hong Kong earned the title "Pearl of the Orient" because of our bright signs. Our streets were like galleries. Iconic streetscapes drew opportunities and talent. As can be seen in movies, postcards and photo books, neon has been an inspiration to many for decades. To this day, the neon streetscape may be one of the first things that comes to mind when people think of Hong Kong.
Q. Can you describe neon signs' heyday in the late 20th century? How was the business environment different from that of today?
A. When walking along Nathan Road, for example, I was greeted by a sea of neon signs. It was magical. I was told that during the heyday, there were around 200 people that worked in the neon industry and some neon tube benders needed to work nonstop for a week or so to meet deadlines.
So far, there hasn’t been a published figure regarding the total number of neon signs in Hong Kong. However, it seems the Buildings Department released a figure around 2010, and there were over 120,000 signs on Hong Kong‘s streets, and I believe a majority of them were neon.
The neon sign of Mido Cafe, an eatery with more than 70 years of history, is being removed in November 2023 to comply with current regulations. Courtesy of TNX
Q. I heard LED lights posed a big threat to the neon industry, followed by government regulations citing safety reasons. When did the industry begin to wane?
A. Neon has been going through transformations since the early 2000s because of a combination of reasons, and LED and regulations are only two of them. Other reasons include the loss of their natural habitat through gentrification and the disappearance of businesses that had neon signs.
Q. Compared to the past when neon lights mainly served commercial purposes, neon lights are appreciated as a form of art these days. Do you think this can be another form of preserving the heritage?
A. Neon has been quite a popular medium that artists like to create with, but it does seem like more artists have embraced neon in recent years. I think it helps with the transition by expanding the "preconceived" role of neon among the general public over time. More importantly, it helps keep the craft going and further nurtures the creativity and skills of the neon artisans.
Q. What more do you think could be done by the community to safeguard the neon lights of Hong Kong?
A. I think the most pressing and effective way for the community to safeguard neon is to rediscover neon, its history and significance. Also, we need to consistently pay attention to the developments and support the industry by commissioning new work.
Hong Kong restaurant Tai Ping Koon's new neon sign in Yau Ma Tei / Courtesy of TNX
Chan gave an example of a successful partnership with Tai Ping Koon restaurant. The collaboration began in October 2022, when the restaurant contacted the TNX about removing a neon sign from its Tsim Sha Tsui branch.
"We approached and left them introduction material even earlier," Chan said. "After some discussions, the restaurant owner, the contractor and we worked together to save the neon sign."
This project laid the foundation of trust, leading to another opportunity with the famous restaurant's Yau Ma Tei branch.
"Due to the trust we already built between us, the owner felt safe to put their two more signs in our hands. To create even more awareness and add another layer of meaning to our 'Vital Signs' exhibition at Tai Kwun at that time, we managed to incorporate one of those signs as a part of the program," Chan said.
The effort has not only preserved the signs but also deepened the restaurant owner's appreciation for Hong Kong's neon heritage, resulting in Tai Ping Koon's commissioning of a new sign, complying with current regulations, for the Yau Ma Tei branch.
"I believe since our collaboration, the owner has been working with us even more closely. We have been helping to promote their sign story in the hope of encouraging other businesses to follow this wonderful example," she said.
Hong Kong restaurant Tai Ping Koon's old neon sign conserved by TNX / Courtesy of TNX
Chan stressed the importance of advocacy and education in neon conservation.
"Without a genuine understanding of neon, it might only be seen as a trend and will only be on the radar temporarily. It takes time for knowledge to sink in and [for] people to shift their existing mindset. Neon doesn’t need to be a sunset industry if we give it a fair chance," she said.
The neon conservationist hopes the TNX's efforts can continue to lay a healthy and solid foundation for neon's continued presence and appreciation in Hong Kong.
"Something historical is not necessarily old and needs to make way for the new. If we are willing to give it a new definition and support, it won't only have a glorious past, but a future too," Chan said.
